Golden evening light spilling onto a monastery in a dark Ladakhi valley
Editorial · Another Escape Volume 10

Ladakh: The Land of High Passes

Rachel and I travelled to Ladakh in the Indian Himalaya to create the travel section for Another Escape's Altitudes Volume, working with Kamalan, a cultural agency that curates immersive journeys to India. Leh sits at 3,256 metres, high enough that carrying a camera bag up a monastery staircase becomes a considered decision. Four stories came home with us: the land, its herdspeople, its food, and what its farmers know that the rest of us have forgotten.

Chapter I

The Land of High Passes

Ladakh is a place rich in history and culture shaped by the rippling landscapes of some of Central Asia's great mountain ranges.

A terraced village on the banks of the Indus River in Ladakh

A terraced village on the Indus River, which snakes through Ladakh. Its jade waters, milky with silt and glacier melt, feed the pockets of oases along its banks.

Lamayuru Monastery and its surrounding settlement in Ladakh

Lamayuru Monastery and its surrounding settlement, home to one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh, dating back to the 10th century.

Likir Monastery on its hilltop, Ladakh

Likir Monastery, Ladakh.

A village and its terraced fields on a Ladakhi hillside
Field Note · Territory

To the north and west of Ladakh lies Pakistan; to the east, China. Most of the borders around the former Princely State of Jammu and Kashmir have never been formally agreed, leaving Ladakh a highly militarised region. Yet it is largely only on the fringes that tension is ever felt, and Ladakh remains a safe and peaceful place, despite the heavy military presence.

A monk in red robes at Hemis Monastery, Ladakh

Monk at Hemis Monastery.

Student monks reading scriptures at Hemis Monastery

Student monks practising at Hemis Monastery.

Field Note · Devotion

A prayer wheel on the roadside close to the Tingmosgang Monastery, just outside Temisgam village. Prayer wheels, like chortens, should only ever be moved around clockwise, even if it diverts the traveller off course.

A large prayer wheel beside vividly painted murals near Tingmosgang Monastery
A Ladakhi lady stood on her rooftop beneath prayer flags

A Ladakhi lady stood on her rooftop in front of prayer flags.

Mani stones engraved with prayers, stacked in a wall

Running long lengths of the landscape, mani walls are composed of stacked stones, each engraved with a prayer.

Prayer flags strung through the branches of a tree

Chapter II

Living at the Roof of the World

For centuries, the nomadic herdspeople of the Chang-thang high plateau, known as the Chang-pa, have endured living in some of the hardest conditions on the planet. Where others would struggle to survive, they have thrived.

Droves of goats crossing the dry plateau near a Chang-pa encampment

Animal husbandry is at the heart of the Chang-pa's livelihood, particularly the Chang-ra goats. The fine fleece combed from their undercoat, known as pashm, is the prized raw fibre of cashmere.

A Chang-pa mother holding her child at their encampment

A Chang-pa mother and child at their encampment on the Chang-thang.

A young Chang-pa infant peering out from a stone shelter

Grubby-faced infants stumble around the camps, layered up in woollen garments. With the state encouraging families to send children to school, it is often only the youngest who remain.

The hearth at the centre of a Chang-pa rebo tent
Field Note · The Rebo

The Chang-pa live in rebos, yak-hair tents crafted from the hair of their own livestock, warm and windproof against winters that can drop to minus 35 degrees Celsius. Each consists of a single round room with a hearth at its centre, fuelled by the dried dung of their animals.

A Chang-pa encampment scattered across the plateau

Pocketed throughout the sweeping plains are scatterings of Chang-pa encampments, each with only a handful of tented homes, usually between four and six.

Field Note · The Skang

Endemic to the Tibetan Plateau is the kiang, locally known as skang, the world's largest wild ass. Curious but careful creatures, they watch those who enter their habitat from afar, galloping across the dry land and kicking up dust trails in their wake.

Kiang galloping across the arid plain beneath snow-capped mountains
Yaks grazing at a waterhole on the Chang-thang plateau

The Chang-pa's yaks are often left to wander unattended, sometimes many kilometres from camp, feeding on the sparse, tufty grasses and sedges.

Chapter III

Tsampa

Geographically isolated in the mysterious mountains of the so-called last Shangri-la, generations upon generations of Ladakhis have depended upon the nourishment of the region's produce to thrive through the harsh seasons at high altitude.

A fieldworker pauses in the barley harvest, sickle in hand

The work is demanding, but the well-natured workers appear contently absorbed by the task at hand.

A fieldworker carrying an armful of freshly cut barley

Fieldworkers, mostly women, thrash rhythmically through the barley with old, weathered scythes.

Butter tea and tsampa laid out in dark vessels
Field Note · Tsampa

Dried on rooftops and ground by local water mills, parched barley, called ngamphe in Ladakhi and more widely known as tsampa, remains a staple across the region. Often served with butter tea, these hearty, calorific staples enable Ladakhis to endure winters that drop as low as minus 50 degrees Celsius.

Hands kneading tsampa flour into kholak in a metal bowl

Kholak: tsampa worked into a dough with butter tea or chhang. Getting the proportions right is somewhat an art form.

Apricots laid out to dry on a rooftop beneath prayer flags

Apricots at various stages of dehydration, laid out to dry in the strong, high-altitude sun.

Field Note · Apricots

Towards the end of summer, the air turns sweet with the fragrant smell of apricots. With so little precipitation in the region, the flat roofs of Ladakhi homes are integral to the household, used to dry fruits, hay, bricks, wood and dung.

A pail of fresh apricots on a green wooden table

“By fostering a symbiotic relationship with the land and finding innovative solutions to their agrarian lives, the people of Ladakh have ensured a life that is rich and satisfies their needs”

The Land of High Passes · Another Escape Volume 10

Chapter II

Living at the Roof of the World

For centuries, the nomadic herdspeople of the Chang-thang high plateau, known as the Chang-pa, have endured living in some of the hardest conditions on the planet. Where others would struggle to survive, they have thrived.

Droves of goats crossing the dry plateau near a Chang-pa encampment

Animal husbandry is at the heart of the Chang-pa's livelihood, particularly the Chang-ra goats. The fine fleece combed from their undercoat, known as pashm, is the prized raw fibre of cashmere, and has shaped the political and social history of the region.

A Chang-pa mother holding her child at their encampment

A Chang-pa mother and child at their encampment on the Chang-thang.

A young
  
  



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